The firing schedule is actually rather flexible.
It is okay to take longer than prescribed. But, it is not okay to to rush the process.
The trick is to slowly drive off the moisture in the clay with out creating any energy from steam
as the kiln reaches 212 degrees F. The form will burst and foul the pieces around it.
If you have a pyrometer, you can monitor the temperature to keep it below 212 degrees f
for a couple of hours. At that low temperture, you could even use an oven thermeter.
Next, it is necessary to give the clay time to burn off the microscopic bits of organic
matter lodged in the body of the clay. After all, the clay came from the ground. Even though, the
clay has been processed and mixed by a clay manufacturer. There are minute particles of wood, leaves,
bugs, etc, hiding within. [ 300 to 1000 degrees F ]
Mullite crystals grow throughout the interior of the clay body as the clay begins to reach its optmum
temperture. Mullite crystals are the “glue” that holds the form together.
Around 1850 degrees F earthenware clay matures and stablizes. Any higher; much higher, the clay
form can actually melt, collapse and may even run ! WOW !
Carefully, faithfully, follow these steps:
