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UNDERGLAZING and GLAZING A CLAY HEAD

image of heads by two students

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STUDENT WORK READY TO UNDERGLAZE

Underglaze or engobe is a pigmented compound that fires to a dull unshiney surface. It is made from ground up/ powdered colored chemical compounds. Underglaze has no silica [ sand ] in it to form a glass like shiney surface. Subsequently, it is very stable and does not flow, drip or stick to anything it touches when firing in the kiln.

A cover coat of clear glaze gives underglaze or engobe a shiny surface. Traditionally, ceramics were not shiny. You can see an example of a very old bowl at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art web site @ collectionsonline.lacma.org

The formed head is ready to underglaze when it is at least leatherhard. [ Almost, completely dry; with some water still in the clay and little or no flexibility left.] Typically, this could be as soon as the day after forming in any climate. Bone dry clay is okay, too. Although, it is more difficult to make corrections or use sgrafitto techniques when it is bone dry.

Underglazing is fast and fun. The physical properties of underglaze are very “WYSIWYG” [ What you see is what you get. ] The color you see is very close to the color you get after it is over glazed with clear and fired. The underglaze brushes on with the same ease as tempra paint. It is best to brush on light colors first. Dark colors easily cover light colors. All colors require at least two layers or coats. It is best to put each color directly on the clay with very little over painting. i.e. Brushing brunette hair on a head with brown and then trying to change to blonde with a cover coat of yellow is not desirable. It will not work. The reverse, however, will probably work. [ Dark over light ]
The head at the right, had lines drawn into the clay with a pencil during the forming stages. The lines gave the student borders for each color. One clear advantage to decorating on unfired clay is the ability it scrape off undesirable features or color.

image of underglazed ceramic head
head ready to decorate

Here are trays of student work: formed and dried; ready to decorate. OR; ready for an optional bisque firing. Younger students, especially Kindergarten, have a difficult time understanding the limits of “fragile.” If time allows, and the circumstances warrent it, you may decide to do a bisque firing.

These bone dry earthenware heads are about to be bisque or bisquit fired. Bisque firing is done for additional reasons.
1. It shrinks and stabilizes the clay. [ Bisque at cone 04 to cone 02 ] Bisque fire to a slightly higher temperture than the temperture you plan to glaze fire.
2. Glaze fire at a slightly lower temperture [ Glaze at cone 05 or cone 06 ] Glaze “fits” better on a stable ceramic surface that will not continue to shrink.

image of loaded kiln ready to bisque fire
kiln load after bisque firing

Low Fire earthenware can be terra cotta red or china white, as you see here. This bisqued load was fired to cone 05. After underglazing and clear, it will be glaze fired at cone 06. The clay is now resilliant and stable. Ears, noses and other appendages are now better able to withstand the innocent abuse of small children and potters.

Whether the clay is leaterhard, bone dry or bisqued; the decorating process can be preformed almost anywhere.

students sit on ground to begin decorating
student underglaze decorating

Patients and persistance pay off for students with a vision.

finished head

A decorated ceramic head.
Ready to brush on a cover coat of
low lead clear glaze

Underglazing is complete. These heads are ready to be over coated with, low lead content, clear glaze. Two coats of clear are desirable, but not neccessary. Additional drying time is necessary for a second coat. The first coat of clear glaze must be dry for the second coat to stick. Otherwise, attempts to brush more glaze, over wet glaze, just pushes the whole wet mess around. This wastes time and glaze.

tray full of heads ready to glaze
glazed tray of heads

These heads are glazed and ready to once fire.
It is absolutely necessary to allow time for the clear glaze to dry. Drying over night or waiting twenty four hours is very important.
The once fire technique puts a lot of stress on the clay.
The ambiant humitity in the air is enough of a problem. A damp or wet head is likely to burst as the temperture in kiln reaches the boiling point of water at 212 degrees F.

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